Winter farmers’ markets might sound like an oxymoron, but they are sprouting up all over. One of the best in my area is the Winter Farmers’ Market in Somerville, Massachusetts.
Only 2 miles northwest of Boston, the city of Somerville used to be predominantly blue-collar with a mix of Irish, Portuguese, and Italians. It wasn’t a destination spot other than to visit Tufts University or, in the old days, make a pilgrimage to Steve’s ice cream for its innovative (at the time) mix-ins. Somerville had a reputation as gritty, and the nickname “Slummer-ville” was hard to shake.
That has changed. Somerville has secured its cool creds as a hipster hotspot. Reasonable rents and empty storefronts attracted inventive chefs, craft-makers, and entrepreneurial shopkeepers. For example, a dilapidated storage building was recently transformed into a vibrant hub of small independent shops and eateries known as Bow Market. Somerville’s upward trajectory (though some would dispute it) is guaranteed to continue since the subway line is being extended there. Rents are no longer cheap nor housing widely available. But Somerville is attracting foodies en masse.
One factor that fuels Somerville’s reputation as a foodie haven is its farmers’ markets. In the warm months there are weekly farmer markets in Union Square and Davis Square, and a mobile farmers’ market . The momentum doesn’t stop in the winter. Currently in its 9th season, the Somerville Winter Market offers a cozy indoors option for buying locally grown and produced foods on Saturday morning from December through mid-April. A woman who recently moved to Somerville tells me, “I like having a farmers’ market all year.”
The market takes place inside the old Armory, a quirky building with turrets and other odd architectural flourishes. Sunlight streams through half-moon windows and casts a warm glow upon the vendors’ displays. Most of them are in a large room that was once a drill hall for the Massachusetts National Guard.
The emphasis is on locally grown produce–much of it organic–and on producers who source ingredients locally. Quality is excellent, which is reflected in the prices. You can find root vegetables such as carrots, beets, potatoes and sweet potatoes, onions, celeriac, turnips and parsnips. Kale and microgreens that were grown in greenhouses provide a splash of green among the more muted colors. Local apples include heirloom varieties that are impossible to find at regular grocers. Watch a video about the winter harvest for suggestions of what is likely to be freshest and most flavorful during the season.
Vegetables and fruits, fresh-baked breads, cheeses, eggs, maple syrups, meats and fish, and specialty edibles are the main draw. And that’s exactly the way that I like it: an honest-to-goodness farmers’ market where local food is the focus. A handful of craft and specialty vendors rotate in each week to round out the offerings.
Prime real estate on the ground floor is given over mostly to vendors who have committed to attending every week. Farms from Boston’s north and south shores are well represented, as are those from western Massachusetts and neighboring states. Judging by their smiles and proud demeanor, vendors really seem to enjoy selling at this market.
The guy from Red Fire Farm explained: “Customers appreciate what we’re selling. It’s satisfying to have a direct connection with people who eat what we grow. They ask questions, and I can help them.” As if right on cue, a customer asked if the rind of the winter squash was edible. Yes it is, the farmer answered, but he doesn’t recommend it because it has a bitter taste.
After making a circuit around the stalls on the ground floor, it’s worth climbing the stairs to explore additional options on the mezzanine, such as Somerville-based chocolatier Gâté Comme des Filles who sells chocolate ganaches and pralines. Alexandra Whisnant trained at Ladurée in Paris and Chez Panisse in Berkeley. Prices are steep, but samples are ample. In the ecstasy of a sugar high, I don’t mind shelling out the dough to buy a “gift” box.
The market is convivial. Friendly vendors and shoppers create a contagion effect of an upbeat mood. Live music amplifies the good vibes. One recent Saturday, musicians serenaded shoppers with bluegrass tunes.
Parents hold their excited toddlers’ hands. I overhear one couple revising their dinner plans after discovering a table filled with exotic mushrooms. A $10 match to SNAP recipients makes the market more affordable so that more residents can enjoy fresh local food. Market manager Marni Berliner says, “Our goal is to increase the availability of local produce and foods in our community, and to create an inviting atmosphere to bring people together to shop.” And they’re succeeding.
Several vendors are familiar presences from the summer market in the Union Square neighborhood of Somerville. Previously, the winter market was managed by the same entity that runs the Union Square market, but now it’s managed by Groundwork Somerville and Arts at the Armory
Winters can be brutal in Boston, isolating us as we dodge the cold. But a Saturday morning outing to the Somerville Winter Farmers’ Market creates a warm sense of community. On my way out, I notice a café near the entrance where shoppers are relaxing over coffee and snacks, including yummy market goods. Next time, I tell myself. Because I know that I’ll be back.
Details
Somerville Winter Farmers’ Market at the Armory
191 Highland Avenue, Somerville, MA 02143
Website: https://www.somwintermarket.org/
Open Saturday from 9:30 am-2 pm, from early December until mid-April
Vendors: https://www.somwintermarket.org/vendors
Holiday markets are also hosted at The Armory, organized by The Somerville Flea.
Parking: There is limited parking available in a lot behind the Armory.
8 comments. Leave new
I went there today. You describe it perfectly. Thanks for the valuable info. It’s because of your post that I went to this market. I’ll be back!
Glad to hear it.
Great piece, Marjorie! I’ve not been in a while and am going to bring my 90 year old mom for an outing soon.
Hi Toni. What a fun outing to do with your mother. I’d love to hear what you both think about it.
Imagine that… “hip Somerville”
Super so
Terrific description of the winter market! Loved the photos and the video to really give a feel. What a great way to stave off the winter chill.
Thank you! I’m looking forward to returning soon.