Picking a Paris Flea Market: Clignancourt or Porte de Vanves?

Any trip to Paris prompts questions about what to do and where to eat. Another decision that’s important to some travelers is which Paris flea market to visit. Paris is a haven for antiques, collectibles, and vintage items. Two of the best flea markets (or “puces“) are Clignancourt (also known as le Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen) and Porte de Vanves (le Marché aux Puces de Porte de Vanves). Here are suggestions for determining which one might suit you best.

What kind of items interest you? If you’re looking for major home furnishings such as sofas, chairs, mirrors, dining tables, chandeliers, etc., then Clignancourt is your best bet. It has a wider selection of large and high-end items.

On the other hand, if you’re inclined toward smaller and less expensive items that you can tuck into a suitcase, then that’s the forté of Porte de Vanves.

The distinction isn’t clearcut, since Clignancourt also has plenty of stalls selling small and medium-sized items. And  Porte de Vanves has some vendors who sell furniture, paintings, and other large items. However, I stand by it as a general rule of thumb.

What kind of shopping experience do you prefer—a large, rambling market or a rather small one? If you like big, then head to Clignancourt. If you’re more comfortable with a smaller market that’s easier to navigate (though still a sizable selection), then check out Porte de Vanves.

Clignancourt is a bunch of flea and antiques markets rolled up into one big extravaganza. It’s actually comprised of 12 covered markets plus sellers outside on the streets. Each of the covered markets has its own personality and a rough similarity in types of items across vendors. You can spend a whole day at Clignancourt and still not see it all. The sprawling nature of Clignancourt can be confusing, especially for first-timers. My advice is to wander around, don’t be put off by the trinket sellers at the edges, and head for the inner sanctum of markets-within-the-market such as Vernaison (claims to be the oldest flea market in Paris), Dauphine, Biron, Paul Bert, and Serpette.

The Porte de Vanves flea market offers a very different experience. One can stroll the entire market in an hour or two, or longer depending on your pace. It’s manageable to see all the stalls and still have a good portion of the day remaining for other activities. The layout of Porte de Vanves is straightforward, since it’s spread across a couple of consecutive blocks.

Which location is most convenient for you? Clignancourt (also known as Saint-Ouen) is on the northern side of Paris, a smidgeon beyond the 18^th arrondissement and the major highway that encircles the city, known as the périphérique. It’s accessible by Métro line 4, exit Porte de Clignancourt. Or the line 13, exit Garibaldi. Coming from the Métro, be prepared to wade through low-end stalls with knock-offs before you get to the heart of the market.

Porte de Vanves is located in the opposite direction, at the southern edge of Paris. It’s in the 14^th arrondissement and easily accessible by the Métro line 13, exit Porte de Vanves.

How important is it to you to eat in the market? If you want to make a full outing of it, shopping plus eating, then Clignancourt offers the attraction of several eateries. The brasserie Chez Louisette, an institution unto itself, is tucked inside the Vernaison market. It serves simple, traditional French fare, often accompanied by live music and singing. Another restaurant is Ma Cocotte, designed by Philippe Starck. No reservations are accepted for Saturday or Sunday lunch, so be prepared for a wait and put your name on the list. Another option is Le Comptoir des Puces in Marché Serpette.

At the Porte de Vanves market, the only food option on the premises is a truck serving snacks and beverages.

Which days do you have available for going to flea market? Hopefully, you’ve got free time on the weekend. Both markets are open Saturday and Sunday. Clignancourt is also open on Monday (though some stalls are closed). If Monday is the only day that’s available on your itinerary, then your choice is easy: Clignancourt. But if Saturdays and Sundays are also options, then you’ll need to factor in the choices mentioned above.

Either way—Clignancourt or Porte de Vanves—you can’t go wrong. Both are excellent flea markets. My recommendation? Do them both. One on a Saturday, the other on a Sunday. For treasure hunters, that’s called a perfect weekend in Paris.

Details:

Clignancourt (Le Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen) is open Saturday 10 am-6 pm, Sunday 10 am-6 pm, Monday 11 am-5 pm. Some stall holders close earlier than these official hours. For my earlier write-ups of Clignancourt, see here and here. For the official website, click here. The market remains open in August, although with reduced activity.

Chez Louisette is located at 136, avenue Michelet in Marché Vernaisson.

Ma Cocotte restaurant is located at 106, rue des Rosiers by Marché Paul Bert & Serpette.

Le Comptoir des Puces is nearby at 110, rue des Rosiers Marché Serpette.

Porte de Vanves (Le Marché aux Puces de Porte de Vanves) is open Saturday and Sunday mornings. Some stallholders start closing before 1 pm. Here’s a link to their official website.

Related Posts:

[Video] 10 Tips for Shopping at Flea & Antiques Markets

5 Tips for Negotiating at French Flea Markets

Best Flea Markets in Paris (and Tip #5)

How to Prepare for Any Flea Market Like a Pro

Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen/Clignancourt

Porte de Vanves Flea Market

Porte de Vanves Flea Market Hours