My Journey to Provence

I’m recently back from a trip to Provence, a region in the south of France that I know well and love. The first part of my journey, purely vacation with my husband, started in Marseille and wended through remote villages. At the start of the second week, I joined the New York Times Journeys “Walk in Provence” tour as the featured expert for an itinerary filled with historical, cultural, and gastronomic experiences.

Rollicking Rosé warrior pose (photo by Michael Tushman)

Immediately upon arriving in Provence, my senses shift into hyper-awareness. The sunlight feels more intense. A brilliant blue ignites a broad-domed sky. Mistral winds cool the skin–ours plus the grapes and olives. Vines nearly topple over from the weight of plump grapes. The air is infused with scents of wild rosemary, thyme, and other aromatic herbs that hug the limestone cliffs. I’m struck by the stark beauty of the landscape, which changes radically from one part of Provence to another.

Les Baux-de-Provence

The art of living, or l’art de vivre, is alive and well in Provence. It’s reflected in the slow rhythms of daily life, the love of being outdoors, and leisurely meals. It’s visible at the markets which feed the body and soul in a weekly ritual that’s been repeating for centuries.

Highlights from the first part of the trip included biking through vineyards, sailing on a catamaran in the Mediterranean, discovering art and sculptures at Château La Coste, soaking up serenity at Château de Fonscolombe, indulging at Le Bistrot du Paradou (a cheese plate that eclipses all others) and splurging at L’Oustau de Baumanière. The 8-day New York Times Journeys trip started in Avignon and Châteauneuf-du Pape, then weaved through Gordes and other hilltop towns in the Luberon, Saint-Rémy, Les Baux-de-Provence, and Arles before circling back to Avignon.

Sailing in the Mediterranean

Spider sculpture by Louise Bourgeois at Le Château La Coste

Each stop revealed a different facet of Provence. I tried several delicacies for the first time, such as poutargue (roe of gray mullet and nicknamed “caviar of Provence”) and bull’s meat from the Camargue. I made a beeline to other local specialties that I cannot get at home in Boston, such as Banon cheese, Joël Durand’s chocolates, and large dull-green cubes of pure savon de Marseille. The Times Journeys group was fantastic. Everyone was eager to learn about and enjoy Provence. In Avignon, we visited the market Les Halles d’Avignon and had a private cooking class at La Maison de la Tour. Restaurant Pollen bowled us over with its culinary creativity such as a sweet “caprese salad” dessert.

“Caprese salad” inspired dessert at Pollen in Avignon

Fabulous cheeses–over 250 varieties–at Les Halles d’Avignon

We visited a goat farm and sampled goat’s milk cheeses. At a basil farm, we rolled up our sleeves with a mortar and pestle to make pesto that we then scooped into steaming bowls of vegetable soup for a typical Provencal soupe au pistou. We hiked almost daily which was a good balance to all the food and wine. In Arles, we explored the large Saturday market with its colorful stalls. We had the good luck to be there during the annual international photography show Les Rencontres d’Arles and the good or bad luck, depending on your point of view, to overlap with the Feria du Riz bullfights. A new Frank Gehry building is not quite finished but far enough along to recognize his trademark style. That’s why I never get tired of visiting Provence: There are always new delights to discover, as well as ancient marvels and timeless charms to appreciate.

Here’s a short video. Turn up the volume and enjoy some armchair travel to the heart of Provence!

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Markets of Provence