Marché d’Aligre in Paris

When I visit Paris, I routinely hop the bus or Métro to the 12^th arrondissement at some point during my stay to explore Marché d’Aligre. Bicyclists weave a crooked path past pedestrians pushing baby carriages or pulling market carts. During my most recent trip, I stayed in an apartment in the 12^th, and it was an easy stroll to the Aligre market. I walked there almost daily and indulged the fantasy that it was my regular market. Even when I set out elsewhere, I felt compelled to chart a route that passed the market. I noticed nuances, such as how much busier it is on weekends than weekdays and the incredible deals that can be had if you’re there shortly before closing time on Sunday. (The market is closed on Monday, so vendors are motivated to get rid of ripe produce.)A distinctive aspect of Aligre is that it’s actually 3 markets in one. First, there’s the outdoor market along rue d’Aligre, which is one of best market streets in Paris.

The Aligre street market offers abundant choices of reasonably priced fruits and vegetables, and big bunches of fragrant fresh herbs especially coriander and mint. The herbs reflect the culinary traditions of North Africa, which is the predominant background of vendors who sell at Aligre. Mangoes with a blush of pink are protected by webbed caps. Artichokes are large as soup tureens.Platefuls of slightly bruised limes, mushrooms, and peppers are offered at low prices. I walk the length of the market to see the options before I start buying.Vendors call out “un euro, un euro” in a fast-paced trill to broadcast bargains. They offer samples, and it’s fine to accept even if you don’t buy anything.  What you won’t find among the street sellers, unlike most other food markets in Paris, are butchers, fishmongers, and cheese sellers. For those specialties, there are excellent options among the permanent shops behind the market stands (more on those below) as well as inside the covered market. 

Which brings us to the second market at Aligre: the historic covered market Marché Beauvau, located midway along the market street at place d’Aligre. Step inside and discover a broad range of choices, among the best of the covered markets in Paris.

There’s more fresh produce, as well as cheeses, meats, fish, and specialty goods. Maison Hardouin-Langlet enjoys a fine reputation for the quality and selection of its regional cheeses, yogurt, and fresh butter.Poissonnerie Maree Beauvau sells fish and prepared seafood salads. I tried the octopus with diced peppers and wasn’t disappointed. Pommier offers craft beers, olives and cheeses. Sur les Quais is an épicerie with specialty items that range from French olive oils and mustards to Italian pastas and Japanese sauces. Artisan butchers trim bright red slabs of meat to suit customers’ requests. Boucherie Hayée has a pig turning on a spit. But you don’t have to go whole hog, because the succulent cochon de lait cuit à la broche is also sold by the piece.

The third market at Aligre is a flea market near the clock tower on place d’Aligre. Trestle tables are loaded with old books, clothing, and housewares. Open boxes are an invitation to poke among the bric-a-brac to search for an inexpensive treasure. As with any flea market, it’s a motley assortment but for those who love the hunt, it’s worth a gander.In all the hubbub of the market, don’t miss the permanent shops that stand behind the temporary stalls. La Graineterie du Marché (8, place d’Aligre) has been around since the 1930s.The shop exudes old-style charm and sells organic grains, rice, and spices by the scoopful. The owner is part French, part Spanish, and he displays goods in some of the shop’s original wooden boxes and spice containers.

Paris-Pêche is a good source of freshly caught fish. Next door, Pâtisserie Amira (17, rue d’Aligre) sells homemade Algerian and Tunisian pastries, breads, and snacks.

Several cafés offer a decent perch for sipping coffee while watching the market action. Sabah is well regarded for Middle Eastern, Mediterranean and North African ingredients: dried fruits, nuts, Turkish lokoum, oils, beans, spices, olives, and sheeps’ and goats milk cheeses. There are two Sabahs in vicinity of Marché d’Aligre (77, rue Crozatier and 140, rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine) with variations in inventory.

If you are able to hang out in the neighborhood longer, Le Baron Rouge (1, rue Théosophile Roussel) is a traditional wine bar with large oak casks where servers pour by the glass or refill empty bottles that locals bring in.Soak it up with a plate of charcuterie. On weekends you might be able to enjoy oysters served outside. If hungry for a full meal, Le Charolais on rue de Cotte offers a hearty formule in the company of rugby balls dangling from rafters.

Marché Aligre offers triple the pleasure of a typical Parisian market because it’s 3 markets in 1, in the midst of a vibrant neighborhood. You might get bitten by the Aligre bug and, like me, be drawn back over and over.

Details:

• Closest Métro stops are Ledru-Rollin or Faidherbe-Chaligny, or the #86 bus.
• The street market (Marché rue d’Aligre) is on rue d’Aligre between rue Crozatier and rue de Charenton. It is open daily except Monday, from about 8:30 am to 1 pm. 
• The indoor market (Marché Couvert Beauvau) is on place d’Aligre, about midway down the market street. It is open Tuesday to Saturday from 8:30 am-1 pm and 4 pm-7:30 pm, and Sunday from 8:30 am-1 pm.
• The flea market, near the clock tower at place d’Aligre, is open daily except Monday, from about 8:30 am-1 pm (stays open a little later on weekends).
• For more on Marché d’Aligre, see Markets of Paris, 2^nd pp. 155-161

Related Posts: 

5 Reasons to Shop the Market Streets of Paris

7 of the Best Covered Food Markets in Paris

Best Flea Markets in Paris (and Tip #5)

Best Paris Markets Open Sunday