Highlights of Andalusia, Spain

Andalusia may be Spain’s second largest region, but it has been high on my list as a destination for architecture, history, sun-drenched beaches, and occasional but fascinating markets. The best-known cities in Andalusia (Andalucía to the Spaniards) are Córdoba, Seville, and Granada. As one ventures out of the cities and toward the southern coast, soaring mountains and rugged terrain resolve rather quickly into lush tropical groves of avocados, mangos, figs, and citrus. 

I had the pleasure of exploring parts of Andalusia with Road Scholar. Our base was Nerja, a beach resort town on the Mediterranean. It rocketed to fame in the 80s when the TV show Verano Azul (Blue Summer) was filmed there. Nerja preserves a quaint charm with scenic strolls and vistas.

We got a taste of daily life in Andalusia by exploring the food market in the center of Málaga.  Mercado Central de Atarazanas (10, Calle Atarazanas) is open Monday through Saturday from 8 am to 2 pm. The building blends Moorish and Gothic elements with modern industrial architecture. We entered through an impressive Moorish archway which is a remnant of when the building had seven large horseshoe arches and the site was a shipyard. (The sea used to reach to the market’s edge.) At the opposite end of the archway, a large stained-glass window depicts Málaga’s riches as a port city and evokes the feeling of having entered a hallowed temple which, in many ways, this market is.

Like many historic buildings, it has gone through various incarnations. After the Catholic monarchs seized control of Andalusia in 1487, the Moors were driven out and the building was turned into a convent. It was by turns a military fort, hospital, and medical school in subsequent years.

To learn what foods are important to any culture, take note of what is featured at the central stalls. Prime real estate goes to vendors who have been at the market for years—often generations—and sell foods that are vital to the local cuisine. The main hall of Atarazanas market is dominated by fish stalls. Indeed, fish is fundamental to the Andalusian palate—fried, fresh, salted, or any which way. Many restaurants and bars serve it “Malagueño”-style, deep fried in a light batter until it’s crispy but still retains the briny flavor of the sea.

Prawns, codfish, hake, calamari, octopus…on and on. The tremendous variety of fresh fish and shellfish comes from the Mediterranean. The fishmongers’ speed and dexterity in sorting and slicing the daily catch is a sight to behold.

Though mesmerized by the fish stalls, I managed to pull myself away to explore other sections of the market. On one side of the main hall, vendors sell meats, cheeses, dried fruits, nuts and spices. On the other, mounds of colorful fruits and vegetables. Look for Målaga almonds which are recognizable by their sheen. The almonds are sautéed in olive oil and splashed with salt. They’re crunchy and addictive.  Don’t miss the cured hams with their decadently rich, nutty flavor or the olives…but you really can’t.

The lively Atarazanas market attracts tourists but is mostly catering to locals who live and work in Málaga. It gets crowded by noon. Along the edge of the market, there are opportunities to refresh from the hustle and bustle with a cerveza and tapas.

Málaga has other smaller markets, a food hall, and a sprawling flea market known as Cortijo de Torres open Sundays. A museum is devoted to the work of Pablo Picasso, who was born here in 1881. With much to see and do, it’s no wonder that Málaga’s star is rising as a travel destination.

Another highlight was touring the olive oil cooperative in the village of Alfarnate. 137 farmers belong to the coop, which processes olives and grains.  We watched as farmers drove in truckloads of fresh olives. A conveyor belt transports the harvest to a wind-blowing machine that removes the leaves and branches. After a rinse in water, the olive skins, flesh, and pits are mixed together. A centrifuge separates solids from liquids. Ultimately a golden oil is extracted. We dipped pan cateto (hearty country bread) into it. The olive oil slid down our throats on tiny rafts of bread, releasing aromatic hints of garlic and fresh-cut grass. Eyes rolled with delight.

At Bodegas Bentomiz, a family-run winery, we enjoyed a 3-course meal with wine pairings. The grapevines are planted willy-nilly owing to the poor soil, but the wines that are produced here measure up to a very high standard. So too does the food, which was expertly cooked and creatively plated by Chef André Both.

No trip to Andalusia is complete without visiting the Alhambra, an ancient palace and fortress perched on a hill in Granada. This was the last Moorish stronghold in Spain. The Moors, a mixed race of Berbers and Arabs who entered Andalusia from Morocco and North Africa, ruled from the 8^th-15^th centuries. In 1492, the Catholic monarchy conquered it and solidified the Christian kingdom which ushered in a tumultuous period of persecution. The Alhambra’s stunning and sophisticated craftsmanship has largely survived and is evident in sensuous gardens, courtyards, fountains, tiles, mosaics, and stalactite ceilings.

What would a trip to Spain be without flamenco? The tradition originated in Andalusia with gypsies who developed it as a form of storytelling and entertainment: plaintive songs sometimes accompanied by the rhythmic pounding of wooden canes. Dance and guitar music were added later. The passion and intensity reflect the gypsies’ suffering as a marginalized ethnic group but also contributed to their cohesion and resilience.

One of the quieter delights was being welcomed into a home in the village of Alfarnatejo. Our hostess, Lola, prepared a typical local meal: cured meats, cheeses, country bread, green salad, chicken soup, pork loin, and patatas a lo pobre or “poor man’s potatoes” but tasty enough to comfort a king. (Thinly sliced potatoes cooked in olive oil with onion, garlic, and peppers.) For dessert Lola served the local specialty of roscos carreros, volcano-shaped doughnuts with a spark of cloves and cinnamon and maybe a whiff of brandy? (Lola speaks no English, and Google translate didn’t serve us well.)

There’s much to enjoy in this part of Spain, from Moorish monuments to local foods and wines, plus markets and traditions that celebrate the bounty of local agriculture. I didn’t get to Seville or Córdoba, but they’re on my list for next time.

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