Fun in the Marais along Rue de Bretagne

Text & photos by Debbie Gabriel. 

One of my favorite neighborhoods in Paris is in the Marais along rue de Bretagne. The Marais is known as the Jewish quarter. Its main artery, rue des Rosiers, is lined with delis and falafel stands. But its northern corner–also known as Upper Marais, or Haut-Marais–is anchored by the Marché des Enfant Rouges (the oldest covered food market in Paris) and offers so much more.

If you want to experience what’s happening in Paris–in food, fashion, design, art and culture–this is a great neighborhood to explore. There is something for everyone and–always–people watching. My teenage daughters love to check out the vintage and high-fashion clothes. Young entrepreneurs have set up shop, attracting both established and aspiring clothing designers. Art galleries are nestled along side streets, so walk in and take a look. I find something new every time we go for a stroll.

Many reviewers say the Marais is devoid of good food. I disagree. Rue de Bretagne offers what you might find in newly fashionable neighborhoods in New York and London. Dining opportunities are plentiful and diverse, from quintessentially French to exotic fare. Young professionals from all over the globe come here to sample creative cocktails offered by some of the best bars in Paris. If you want something more rustic, pick up provisions at the Enfants Rouges market  (one of the best covered markets in Paris) and head to Square du Temple.

This oasis in the middle of a buzzing neighborhood boasts a pond, gazebo, shade trees, and a playground. Unlike some Parisian parks, you are permitted to sit on the grass here. If you want to dine en plein aire (outdoors), or if the kids need a break to play, this is your spot.

Take time to explore. The Marais–particularly along Rue de Bretagne–is a fun place to wander, to gaze, and to graze.

Favorite Stops Around Rue de Bretagne

Market: Le Marché Couvert des Enfant Rouges (Enfants Rouges Covered Market)

Address: 39, rue de Bretagne 75003 Paris

Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 8:30 am-1 pm, 4-7:30 pm, Sunday 8:30-2 pm

Métro: Filles du Calvaire or Temple

Picnic Spot: Square du Temple

Address: 64 rue de Bretagne

Museum: Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature- One of the small museums in Paris and a gem. The museum opened in 2007 in a fabulous 17^th century mansion. It is devoted to hunting and nature but don’t be put off by that if that’s not your thing. It is a visual feast with incredible furniture, paintings, and taxidermy.

Address: 62, rue des Archives 75003 Paris

Phone: 01-53-01-92-40

Hours: Tuesday-Sunday 11am-6 pm

Shopping:

Merci– This lifestyle shop was created by Marie-France Cohen and her late husband Bernard Cohen, founders of the upscale children’s brand Bonpoint. Merci is on three levels and has a broad selection of clothing, housewares, furniture, linens, and jewelry. It sells refreshment in a canteen in the basement and a literary café on the ground floor. It’s like ABC Carpet (the NYC store with eclectic goods) meets Anthropologie except all profits go to charity. Nice.

Address: 111 boulevard Beaumarchais 75003 Paris

Phone: 01-42-77-00-33

Hours: Monday-Saturday 10am-7pm

Métro: Saint-Sébastien Froissart

Violette et Léonie– Recent vintage finds at reasonable prices.

Address: 27, rue de Poitou and 1, rue de Saintonge  75003 Paris

Phone: 01-44-59-87-35

Hours: Monday 1-4:30 pm, Tuesday-Saturday 11 am-4:30 pm

Métro: Saint-Sébastien Froissart or Filles du Calvaire

Shine– A contemporary shop with well-selected merchandise and a real Parisian take on style.

Address: 15 rue de Poitou 75003 Paris

Phone: 01-48-05-80-10

Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 11 am-7:30 pm

Métro: Saint-Sébastien Froissart or Filles du Calvaire

Pretty Box– A well-curated vintage clothing shop for men and women. They carry many designer labels and prices are reasonable.

Address: 46, rue de Saintonge 75003 Paris

Hours: Monday 2-7 pm, Tuesday-Saturday 11 am-7 pm

Phone : 01-48-04-81-71

Métro: Filles du Calvaire or Temple

Cocktails:
Grazie– Wonderful pizza and cocktails. This restaurant is owned by the son of the founders of Bonpoint and Merci. The pizza is some of the best in Paris, as well as a good selection of charcuterie and great cocktails.

Address: 91, blvd Beaumarchais 75003 Paris
Phone: 01-42-78-11-96
Hours:  everyday for lunch everyday and dinner most days; best to reserve
Le Mary Celeste– This is a new venture from the team that owns Candeleria (see below). Cocktail /oyster bar, Brooklyn beer on tap, inventive bar food, and small plates… yum!
Address: 1, rue Commines 75003 Paris

Hours: Monday-Friday 6 pm-2 am, Saturday-Sunday from noon-2 am. Reservations by email only at reservations@lemaryceleste.com

Candelaria– This cocktail bar is located behind the big door in the back of a small taqueria.  Stop by the lunch counter to sample some of the best homemade tacos in Paris or later for a cocktail mixed by one of the most talented teams of mixologists in France. They have been nominated one of the Best Cocktail Bars in the World again this year.

Address: 52, rue de Saintonge 75003 Paris

Phone: 01-42-74-41-28

Hours: Taqueria is open Sunday-Wednesday 12:30pm-11 pm and Thursday-Saturday 12:30 pm-midnight. Brunch on Saturday and Sunday from 12:30-4 pm. For cocktails, the bar is open every day from 6 pm-2 am.

Reservations: info@candelariaparis.com (for Candeleria only; not accepted for Taqueria)

Address: 52 Rue de Saintonge 75003 Paris

Other Good Eats:
Al Taglio– Roman-style pizza sold by the kilo or cut to the size you want. Great for a quick lunch or snack, place your order and take a seat. Try the potato and truffle pizza.

Address: 27, rue de Saintonge 75003 Paris
Phone:01-43-38-12-00

Popelini– Gets its name from the chef to Catherine de Medici (wife of King Kenry II of France) who in 1540 invented the choux pastry. This shop is devoted to the choux, or cream puff. There are about 10 different flavors, including dark chocolate, Madagascar vanilla, and salted caramel. Don’t let the size fool you; they are small but packed with rich cream filling.

29, rue Debelleyme 75003 Paris

Phone-01-44-61-31-44

Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 11 am-7:30 pm, and Sunday 10 am-3 pm
Prices: about 1.80 per cream puff

Rose bakery– This tea room serves all-organic food. Lunch includes a choice of fresh salads. They have wonderful baked goods. One of the best carrot cakes I’ve ever eaten.
Address: 30, rue Debelleyme 75003 Paris

Phone-01-49-96-54-01
Open: Tuesday-Sunday

Clasico Argentino– Delicious empanadas and homemade ice cream (helados)

Address: 56, rue de Saintonge 75003 Paris
Hours: everyday from noon-11 pm
Phone: 01-44-61-00-56

Art Galleries:

Galerie Jaeger Bucher– Contemporary art

Address: 5, rue de Saintonge Paris 75003

Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 11 am-7 pm

Galerie Martine et Thibault de la Châtre– Contemporary art

Address: 4, rue de Saintonge Paris 75003

Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 11 am-7 pm

Galerie Eric Dupont– Champions the work of emerging artists

Address: 138, rue du Temple

Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 11 am-7 pm

 

Debbie Gabriel lives in Paris and strolls along rue de Bretagne as often as her schedule permits.

 

Related Links:

Enfants Rouges Covered Food Market

7 of the Best Covered Food Markets in Paris