Dreams are made of “April in Paris,” and this April my dream came true. The trip was a combination of work and pleasure, although with travel writing the line between them is blurry. Throughout Paris, trees are proclaiming spring with a halo of buds. Gardens have sprung awake with fiery color.
At the Jardin des Plantes, throaty serenades of frogs are growing loud.
Following my typical routine, exploring markets was my highest priority. The markets are constantly changing, not in dramatic ways but with slight turnover in vendors and shopkeepers. Morale seems better, the economy stronger, and turnout at neighborhood markets and in restaurants is higher than ever. Even the vendors’ trill of “un euro, un euro” to lure customers has a zestier ring. I’ll be writing more about the specific markets and changes that I noticed in upcoming posts.
Marché Bastille
My husband Michael and I stayed in a friend’s apartment near the Gare de Lyon. We discovered nooks and crannies of the Right Bank that we had never seen before. I packed sturdy walking shoes—not fashionable by Parisian standards, but they served me well. And I wasn’t alone. Sneakers and comfortable shoes are more common these days, and not just on the feet of Americans. I heard far less clickety-clack of high heels.
Restaurant highlights were Carbón with its inventive wood-fired specialties (on rue Charlot in the 3rd arr.), East Mamma (a superb Neopolitan trattoria on rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine in the 11th) and Benoît, a classic French bistro serving cassoulet and swoon-worthy profiteroles (on rue Saint-Martin in the 1st).
pasta with truffles at East Mamma
Other food memories created this trip that I won’t forget anytime soon: cheeses from the Beauvau covered market in place d’Aligre, sweet and juicy strawberries approaching the peak of their season and available at the markets if you get there early enough, and pain aux raisins at Blé Sucré.
New experiences for me during this trip to Paris included hunting through swatches of luminous fabrics at good prices at the Malhia Kent shop along Viaduc des Arts. Cheering for runners in the Paris marathon. Entertaining the previously unimaginable thought of getting a bird after falling for a dapper, sweet-tempered canary named Happy at the Sunday bird market on Île de la Cité.
fabrics from Malhia Kent
A few other unexpected and admittedly broad observations: More acceptance of credit cards, even at markets. More businesses open on Sundays. And sadly, more use of cell phones during meals and a downtick in the customary French sport of spirited conversation. But the main takeaway? That “April in Paris” is not only a good song but also very sensible travel advice.
Jardin du Luxembourg
Bring a little “April in Paris” with Billie Holiday into your day today – click below and enjoy.
46 comments. Leave new
Your beautiful pictures and the song of Billie Holiday makes my morning! The Jardin des Plantes reminds me my first trip with John to Paris,
April, 1986. Thanks Marjorie!!!
Such nice memories those must be. The Jardin des Plantes is a terrific place for love to blooom!
LOVED this post! LOVED the photos and hearing about your new experiences. Thank you for sharing all of this.
That makes my day. Thank you!
Can’t wait! My girlfriends and I leave in 3 days. Armed with your book in hand, we head for Portes de Vanves on Saturday. Send us your good hunting vibes. 🙂 Thanks for the amazing tips. Merci!
I’m sending the vibes. Have a great trip!
Loved this! Great photography! Ah, the food! Were the frogs speaking in French? 😆
With a thick accent. I couldn’t understand a single ribbit.
Marjorie , tu nous donnes le gout d’aller flaner a PAris !
I can taste la patisserie avec le bon cafe …. it ended perfectly with Billie Holiday
Merci
My pleasure. Thanks for your comment 🙂
Thanks for the wonderful report. Spring is also bursting out here in Bordeaux.
Lucky you!
Marjorie, beautiful post, really takes me back. Some of your observations about social changes I guess were inevitable……
Sounds like it was a wonderful trip!
Thanks, Cory. The social changes are inevitable, I suppose, and happening quickly.
Chanced upon your inspiring blog this morning while planning a 10 day visit to Paris in June. Merci Merci ! Any suggestions for where to learn about events openings concerts happening that time of year? Now to check out those shoes !
Here’s a link to the official Paris website for May & June 2018: https://en.parisinfo.com/discovering-paris/major-events/what-to-do-in-paris/what-to-do-in-aris-may-and-june/what-to-do-in-may-and-june-in-paris. TimeOut Paris is also a resource for a quick summary. https://www.timeout.com/paris/en. Have a great trip!
Marjorie,
I thoroughly enjoyed your article of Paris in April! I visited Paris last June and can’t wait to go back! Thank you for sharing!
I hope you’ll return! Thanks for your comment.
I’m a fan of your Finn shoes too! Spring has finally hit in Paris. The banks of the Seine are full of Parisians instead of winter’s overflow. Such a pleasent relief to see your fresh pictures.
Here’s the shoe website for other admirers. European-styled shoes I don’t think you can get in Europe…
http://www.finncomfort.com/womens-collection.html
By the way Blé Sucre is one of the best patisseries in Paris. Everything they make is irresistible.
Always in the know! Thanks for the link, Carol.
Your post brightened up this cold spring day in the midwestern United States. The photos are so colorful & they evoke French culture & charm. I love your insights about some of the changes that are occurring in Parisian life.
Many thanks for your kind feedback.
Your photographs and brief captions transported me. It is a magical city!
Glad to hear it!
Marjorie–
Great post, as always. And, great black oxford shoes! Did you get them in the US? I have to be very careful about not falling (again), so I’m always on the hunt for the perfect walking shoe. Which, it appears, you’ve found. Please let me know!
Harry’s Shoes in NYC
I should have known! Love that place.
Merci, Marjorie.
I love it! Thank you. I’ll be there in three weeks!
Lucky you. Bon voyage!
Your blog is fantastic and so inspiring…Next year for me!
Thanks so much for the feedback.
Why just take a bite out of that raisin treat? Bread bakery in NY has delicious ones too. The colors are so enticing as we have had so little sun!!
I devoured the rest of the pastry immediately after taking the photo!
Boy does this look special!!
It truly is.
Thanks for the wonderful April in Paris tour, complete with sound effects! And I could do this without my sturdy shoes, although I’d certainly prefer strolling the fascinating markets with you Marjorie.
That’s a dream we share. Thanks.
Marjorie: I loved reading this: a brief glimmer of “Paris in the Spring” made my day!
( Hello Michael!)
Thanks you for letting me know!
How cheery your post is, as we endure a very cold & snowy spring in the Midwestern United States! Thank you for the beautiful photos & insights about life & culture in France.
Thanks!
Lovely!! Thank you for bringing some Parisian Avril into my Massachusetts morning.
Thanks, Joel. Spring will arrive in Massachusetts one of these days!
Wonderful. I LOVE your sneakers!!! LOLOLOLOLO. Will you reveal what kind????
XXX
Sure. They’re Finn shoes. Super comfortable.