The Ambivalence of a Market Hound

It has been a year since my last trip to France. I miss the sweet, buttery brioche bread. I miss the soft pastels of painted shutters. I miss the shady allées of plane trees. I miss the excitement of travel. 

But more than anything, I miss the French markets–the food and crafts, the colors and aromas, the spirited interactions.

I’m continuing to go to farmers’ markets where I live in Massachusetts. I’m glad that they’re open and that vendors are willing to show up week after week. Sadly, though, market-shopping is more transactional now. It’s an errand to be done, and less so a pleasure to be savored.

The easy-going spirit and free-flowing conversation have taken a hit during this pandemic given the necessities of social distancing and masks.

Despite these disappointments, there are upsides. I value the freshness and flavor of goods at farmers’ markets compared to what’s in traditional grocery stores. I’m noticing the shoppers’ appreciation of vendors’ efforts, and the vendors’ reciprocated appreciation of customers’ support and encouragement. In that regard, the sense of community remains strong. The pandemic revealed vulnerabilities in our food supply system. It’s thanks to the resourcefulness of regional independent farmers that many of us have been able to keep a supply of fresh food on the table.

I will continue to support the markets as far into the season as they remain open. At some point, the esprit will return. And at some point I’ll be able to return to France. My first outing will, of course, be to the markets.

Here’s a video of some of the best offerings at the farmers’ markets right now. Enjoy!