I’m recently back from a trip to France. As usual, I visited as many markets as I could fit into my itinerary. I arrived early to some, late to others. In each instance, I was reminded of how important timing is to having a good market experience. I mentioned this in an earlier post, but the point bears repeating and some fine-tuning.
I went to Marché Enfants-Rouges (a covered market in Paris’s 3rd arrondissement) in the late afternoon and found it practically empty and unexciting. But when I returned a few days later, shortly before noon, it was hopping. On a separate occasion, I made a plan to meet a friend who lives in Paris. She had never been to Le Marché d’Aligre because it’s far from her neighborhood. She was eager to experience it with me. Unfortunately we arrived as merchants were boxing up their remaining goods, and sanitation workers were taking aim with their hoses at the debris on the street. It was fascinating to watch the clean-up, but my friend didn’t get to see this wonderful market at its best. I should have known better. If I had it to do over, I would have proposed that we enjoy a leisurely lunch after the market, not before.
My tip is this: It matters what time (and which day) you arrive at markets. More specifically:
* Weekend days are often the better option if you’re looking for a lively experience. More shoppers and street entertainers show up. Week days, on the other hand, are more quiet and calm.
* On Sundays, most Parisian markets start winding down after noon. If you can’t get to a market well before 1 pm on a Sunday, it’s probably not worth going.
* Go early for the best selection. Or later for the best deals. The busiest hours are generally 10-noon. For flea markets, arrive as early in the morning as possible.
* If taking photos is a priority, arrive early to avoid the crowds and midday shadows and to see the stands at their fullest.
If you show up to a market when most of the action is over, you’ll be scratching your head wondering what all the excitement over Parisian markets is about. When they’re closed or nearly so, they can seem desolate and dreary. But give the markets a whirl at peak time, and the experience will be totally different.
In Markets of Paris, we open every entry with the details of which days and what times the markets are open. (Plus the nearest Métro stop.) 
If you’re consulting the “Open on Sunday” list (pp. 280-290), check the markets’ individual write-ups for more precise information. There are a couple of exceptions but generally if you can’t get to a market well before 1 pm on Sunday, pick something else to do that day instead. There’s no shortage of other enticing options!
Related Links:
5 Shopping Tips for Paris Markets
Paris Market Finder
Porte de Vanves Flea Market Hours (& Other Reasons…)
Enfants Rouges
Tip #1: Navigating Your Way to the Markets
Tips #2 & 3: Early vs Late & Photo Permissions
Tip #5: The Best Flea Markets in Paris
To Market To Market
2 comments. Leave new
I am wondering if the street markets will be open on Bastille Day??
As far as I know, yes they will be open.